By Mary
W
Less than an hour south of Hamburg is a beautiful state park with rolling hills dotted with evergreens and covered with the famous Heide (heather). Here in 1921 an area of about 50,000 acres around the village of Wilsede was designated as the first German nature reserve, protecting the Heide even though the the plant spread only after all the trees were cut down for wood to build salt mines. The Heide spread through the sandy soil and thanks to the appreciation of painters, writers and nature lovers, the area became protected from greedy developers. In the center of the reserve is Wilseder Berg (169m/554ft), the highest point of the northern German lowlands. The best way to enjoy the beauty of the preserve is to take the walk. Begin at the parking area at the end of the road in the village of Undeloh. Head out through the woods, then follow the path through the open fields of heath, up to the top of Wilseder Berg. There are many signs along the way, mostly carved into large stones. At the top of the hill you can see for miles in every direction. There is also a small covered hut in case of rain. Continuing down the other side of the hill, you will come to the village of Wilsede, which has several museum houses open for visitors and a few craft shops. There are a couple of hotels/restaurants where you can stop for lunch or cake. No cars are allowed in the village except for those who live there. As you pass through the village and get to the end of the hill, there is a large, self-service restaurant that has a beautiful view across open fields. In the summer, be sure to watch out for thieving chickens! Finish the hike by following the road back to the parking area. The entire trip is about 10 kilometers and can be done easily in two hours, but why rush? Pack a picnic lunch and rest at the top of Wilseder Berg, then stop for dessert on the way back. We take this hike several times throughout the year and find it gorgeous year round, even or especially in snow. But when the vibrant pink Heide blooms in August, which adds to the beauty of the quiet hills, just be prepared for large crowds. If you don’t want to walk 10 kilometers, there are shorter walks and horse-drawn carts for hire.
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